G.I. Joe Classified Series

I bet we see a ton of him drop out of the sky later in the summer.

Who knew Corporal Jack S. Morelli, communications expert, would be such a hot ticket item.
 
docsilence said:
I bet we see a ton of him drop out of the sky later in the summer.

Who knew Corporal Jack S. Morelli, communications expert, would be such a hot ticket item.
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Yeah his wave was strange. SAW Viper and Leatherneck showed up in large enough quantities that there was never an issue getting them. Zandar was out of stock in a lot of places early on, but then he was restocked fairly quickly and now it is easy to get him. Dial-Tone seems to have had some production issues that are now slowly being corrected.
 
Dang the paint rubbed off from Darklon's dagger into his sheathe in record time. Two days, in and out of the sheath probably 3-4 times and there's multiple spots where you can see the black plastic. Oh well, I'd rather it be tight in the sheath and paint rub than have the thing falling out and getting lost, just a shame paint rub is bad as ever in 2025. Maybe I'll repaint and seal it.
 
I’ve definitely touched-up, detailed and modge-podge’d Darklon’s blades, cuz yeah the paint rub is real.

Edit: also, I can’t believe I didn’t think of THIS before. Gonna look great on the cop too I think.
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Question for folks with a good amount of Classified figs... how swappable do the heads tend to be between figures? Specifically I'm thinking of picking up some more of the 60th anniversary offerings like the normal desert trooper and diver guys and wondering if they are likely to headswap well with like the police officer or others.
 
vicious said:
Dang the paint rubbed off from Darklon's dagger into his sheathe in record time. Two days, in and out of the sheath probably 3-4 times and there's multiple spots where you can see the black plastic. Oh well, I'd rather it be tight in the sheath and paint rub than have the thing falling out and getting lost, just a shame paint rub is bad as ever in 2025. Maybe I'll repaint and seal it.
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I've been stressing out the past few days with paint rubbing off on knifes and swords lately - I stupidly thought storing them in the sheaths would be okay but the metal rips off easier than I'd like. does painting and resealing usually work? I'm a minis painter so I've got... infinite amounts of silver/steal paint and varnish, but just don't want to make it too thicccccc to fit back in the sheath. I actually went through my figures not curently on display last night and removed their knives.

(Sidebar - I'm also going to need to do some boil-and-straighten with a lot of rifles soon. some of the non-displayed figure tipped or settled in the box and warped the weapons. My own fault but still upsetting.)

I don't think the heat helps. I noticed last night that in this heat wave a lot of classified knees went from really solidly racheted to almost loose.
AceofKnaves said:
Edit: also, I can’t believe I didn’t think of THIS before. Gonna look great on the cop too I think.
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That looks REALLY good.
 
JakeEkiss said:
Question for folks with a good amount of Classified figs... how swappable do the heads tend to be between figures? Specifically I'm thinking of picking up some more of the 60th anniversary offerings like the normal desert trooper and diver guys and wondering if they are likely to headswap well with like the police officer or others.
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I haven't found any issues with head swapping amongst the Classified with the exception of the Snake Eyes figures. A lot of Marvel legends heads are close, you either have to fill in some space in the Marvel Legends head cavity with something like bluetak, drill out some space for the Joe neck to fit, or a combo of both.
 
Spongyblue said:
I haven't found any issues with head swapping amongst the Classified with the exception of the Snake Eyes figures. A lot of Marvel legends heads are close, you either have to fill in some space in the Marvel Legends head cavity with something like bluetak, drill out some space for the Joe neck to fit, or a combo of both.
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That's good to know, thanks!
 
The thing with Classified heads is that some, especially the earlier waves, are on different-sized ball-joints. One way to combat that is to swap the whole neck piece along with the head. Some swaps work better than others, and later figures have the barbell joint in their head/neck assembly that can sometimes feel too long or too short, depending on the head/neck combo.
 
I did this thread to list which parts are reused (mostly stolen from Hisstank) to make it easier for parts swapping, particularly the necks/heads.
Ru1977

Thread 'G.I. Joe Classified Series Parts Breakdown & Checklist'

Hello all, piggy backing pretty hard on a lot of work done in this Hisstank.com thread. I thought we could do our own version, especially since that one hasn't been updated in several months. This can also serve as a handy checklist for the collection as a whole. Please, everyone feel free to weigh in on anything from corrections, formatting suggestions, and especially filling in gaps. I'm guessing between all of us, we've got every figure covered. I know it can be really tricky to determine where certain parts originated, but could be a fun project for all of us to get into. We can...
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Ru1977 said:
This is something I spend probably too much thought on, but the best answer is "they need to start bringing some POC designs in already goddamnit" because of course those versions of Spirit and Recondo are good to go.

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I'm really hoping they make a City Strike Iron Grenadier from the POC line. I love the camo and the shoulder armor, plus all the gear he comes with. This one's definitely in my top 10 wishlist.
 
Akatsuki said:
I’m way behind, but I have to boost the Hydro-Viper! Loved that guy! Such a cool helmet.

I’d love to get Eel v 2 with the big red Black Manta eyes and robot shark!

Another awesome underwater trooper was Undertow. And he had a pet barracuda!

Also need Alley Viper v2 with the stronger proportions, awesome armor, snake shield, and fanged helmet!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Hydro Viper is my #1 most wanted!
 
vicious said:
Dang the paint rubbed off from Darklon's dagger into his sheathe in record time. Two days, in and out of the sheath probably 3-4 times and there's multiple spots where you can see the black plastic. Oh well, I'd rather it be tight in the sheath and paint rub than have the thing falling out and getting lost, just a shame paint rub is bad as ever in 2025. Maybe I'll repaint and seal it.
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I had my dark blue CC stored in a bag with his sword loose inside. The sword made contact with his cape and left silver marks on it. Same thing happened to my ML Nightcrawler, which is why I started buying even smaller bags for individual accessories. I must've been in a rush or too lazy to grab an extra mini bag when I was bagging up CC because I did know better from past experience.
 
docsilence said:
I've been stressing out the past few days with paint rubbing off on knifes and swords lately - I stupidly thought storing them in the sheaths would be okay but the metal rips off easier than I'd like. does painting and resealing usually work? I'm a minis painter so I've got... infinite amounts of silver/steal paint and varnish, but just don't want to make it too thicccccc to fit back in the sheath. I actually went through my figures not curently on display last night and removed their knives.
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In my experience - storing bladed weapons in their scabbards/sheaths isn't really going to cause any more damage than not doing so - the damage is being caused by moving the weapon in and out so whatever causes you to do that more often is going to be more of an issue. And in my experience (I've customized a LOT of stuff relevant to this), painting and sealing isn't really going to help at all. In fact, it may be worse. If the bladed item is -already- thick enough that there's enough friction to rub the paint off, then it's definitely going to make it worse if you add more paint thickness (and the thickness of a sealer over that).

In general, the super dangerous automotive-level paint Chinese companies use on action figures is already more robust than most US commercially-available paints with sealer applied. If the factory paint is rubbing off, it's almost a certainty that yours will too, even with a sealer.

You may find more success in trying to widen the sheath/scabbard to create less friction. I've done this in the past by carving down a popsicle stick to size/shape, heating up the sheath, and forcing the popsicle stick into it. Do that a few times over the course of several days and you can stretch out the sheath enough to fix the problem. If you're fairly precise with it, you can avoid making it too loose and having the sword/knife fall out.
 
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