Red Ogre
Former shit heel
I'd like to thank the academy for the opportunity, and Tylenol for the autistic tendencies....And the award for "Nerdiest Paragraph on Articulated Thoughts" goes to... *opens envelope* ...Red Ogre!
Bravo sir! BRAVO!
Customizing 101
- Thread starter TheSameIdiot
- Start date
joshsquash729
Born on the cob
Probably a stupid question, but I wasn't sure where else to put it. Long story short, I ordered a fodder body to paint and turn into something else, but I wanna make sure I do it right. It's a pinless body, and I realized I've never taken apart a pinless body, except at joints that are easy to pop back in, like the head, shoulders, and legs. How easy is it to take the figure apart at all the articulation points- elbows, knees, etc., and get back together? Is it as simple as a boil and pop like it often is for the older pinned figures, or are there more steps and precautions needed? Keeping in mind that I have almost no experience and can find a may to mess up even the simplest of tasks.
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- Apr 2, 2025
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- 7,613
You know that word that means 'the opposite of easy?' That's how easy.
adrienveidt
Pensive
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- Apr 9, 2025
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Mentioning 'the' figure is useless without giving an example. There's too many differences in engineering to advise you rough generalities of a specific item.
joshsquash729
Born on the cob
Well, dang. I guess I'll just take it apart where I can, slap some paint on, and hope for the best. Don't wanna risk tearing it apart beyond repair, and knowing me, I totally would.
It's a G.I. Joe Classified Beach Head, if that helps. Ain't really collected any Classified, but I'd imagine they're engineered the same as Legends and Black Series.
It's a G.I. Joe Classified Beach Head, if that helps. Ain't really collected any Classified, but I'd imagine they're engineered the same as Legends and Black Series.
Classified figures can be heated and taken apart at most moving joints, though the torso/abs/waist might be questionable. I know that the pelvis has some kind of overlay on most that can be swapped between figures. The torso/abs/waist depends on the type of plastic. If they're ABS (hard, rigid), and connected with barbell joints (also ABS), then usually they can't be taken apart. If the parts are made of PVC (softer, pliable) plastic, then you should be able to heat/pop. I usually use a hairdryer blowing on the part for about a minute.
joshsquash729
Born on the cob
Appreciate the tips, Norm! I feel pretty comfortable with removing most parts- head, arms, legs (TBD on elbows and knees). Just didn't know if the pinless joints made it any harder to take apart/get back together, since I'm sure they' have to be lined up almost perfectly, and it may be harder to tell without seeing the inner workings.
Just curious- what's the ratio of hairdryer vs. boil-and-pop you guys use? I don't know if I've ever had luck with the hairdryer, but I may be holding it too far or not getting hot enough. I almost always go for the boil-and-pop method, but there's been times where I've felt like the plastic was gonna tear. Are there times when you think one type works best over the other, or is it just a "whatever works for you" kind of thing?
Just curious- what's the ratio of hairdryer vs. boil-and-pop you guys use? I don't know if I've ever had luck with the hairdryer, but I may be holding it too far or not getting hot enough. I almost always go for the boil-and-pop method, but there's been times where I've felt like the plastic was gonna tear. Are there times when you think one type works best over the other, or is it just a "whatever works for you" kind of thing?
Oh, for pinless joints, it's not just heat and pop. Most pinless joints are made using a process called injection mold. That is, the ABS plastic (knee or elbow) is inserted into the mold, and PVC plastic is filled in around it in its own mold. Once cooled, it creates that sturdy joint and eliminates pins because the pin is essentially part of the PVC plastic going through the ABS hinge holes. To swap them, you'd have to cut the "pin" permanently to removed from the ABS knee or elbow. You could still replace if the cut is clean, but the joint may be loose as a result. You can also dab a bit of glue at the cut spot once it's back on the knee/elbow, but jamming up the joint with that glue is a possibility.
I am 100% hairdryer heat and pop. I find that boiling/heating the water works fine, while the water is still hot. But I don't love having to reheat the water over and over again if I'm in the middle of a project. A hairdryer is handy and works within 45-60 seconds on high heat.
One time I tried to boil and pop a Hasbro Thing figure, and the heat from boiling water just wouldn't permeate the thickness of the figure's plastic, not enough to soften it to remove what I wanted to remove at the time (I think it was the thigh from the hip?) But even the hairdryer wasn't working on him. I just didn't love struggling with a hot, slippery figure.
joshsquash729
Born on the cob
Always be careful when handling your hot, slippery Thing!
Appreciate the further tips. Everything I've seen thus far as told me I shouldn't even bother trying to take apart a pinless figure, except maybe at the usual spots- head, shoulders, legs. I have nowhere near the amount of expertise needed. I mostly just want to make sure the paint is evenly spread and covers all parts of the joints as well, but I know there's ways to go about that.